
05 Aug Interview with Silvana Candiani: the passion for rescue and the commitment of a professional woman in action
Silvana is much more than a key figure in our camp; she is the person behind the rigorous training the staff receives each year and the mind that has designed the contingency plan that allows us to operate with peace of mind and safety. With overwhelming passion and a vast background, Silvana not only ensures that everything runs smoothly but also inspires those around her. In this interview, we delve into her world to learn more about the woman who, with her experience and dedication, makes every season at the camp an unforgettable experience.
How did you get started in the world of mountaineering, and what led you to specialize in mountain safety and rescue?
My grandparents, especially my grandfather, were the ones who connected me to life in the mountains, particularly the contact with water. He taught me to swim when I had just started walking and gradually exposed me to increasingly intense water currents, eventually leading to challenges in swollen rivers and open sea. This forged my character and sharpened my perception of my physical and mental capabilities.
In the 4th grade of primary school, I went on my first camping trip, and it was an experience that marked me forever… I feel that excitement as if it were today…
At 16, I took my first climbing course and immediately after, a mountain survival course. It was at that moment, and I remember it with total clarity, that I “decided” to specialize in Mountain Rescue. I had no idea what path I had to follow, so I made my way as I went.
My maternal grandparents, especially my grandfather, introduced me to life in the mountains, especially contact with water. From the time I was just learning to walk, he taught me to swim and gradually exposed me to increasingly intense water currents, including challenges in swollen rivers and open sea. These experiences forged my character and honed my perception of my physical and mental capabilities.
In the 4th grade, I vividly remember my first camping trip. An experience that still marks me today. The excitement I felt then is as vivid as if it were yesterday.
At 16, I took my first rock climbing course followed immediately by a mountain survival course. It was then that I “decided” to specialize in Mountain Rescue. Although I initially had no idea what path to follow, I have been charting my own path step by step.
These early experiences and the influences of my grandparents have been fundamental in my life, guiding me toward my passion for the mountains and rescue.
How many years have you been working as a rescuer, and what have been some of the most challenging moments of your career?
I started working as a rescuer 28 years ago, initially as a lifeguard, then as a volunteer rescuer with the Argentine Red Cross, and finally, and to this day, as a mountain and remote area rescuer.
In my training and career as a mountain rescuer, being a woman adds an additional layer of complexity to my experiences. From the beginning, I faced challenges related to social expectations and gender perceptions in a field predominantly dominated by men. The constant need to prove my physical and technical skills, often facing entrenched stereotypes, was a constant reality.
In courses and training, I had to overcome not only physical tests but also the judgments and prejudices that sometimes came with the territory. The quest for respect and recognition based on my ability and dedication was a constant motivation, driving me to strive even harder at every step.
Additionally, in practical and real rescue situations, my gender sometimes influenced team dynamics and the perception of my leadership. Maintaining clear and effective communication, as well as demonstrating solid technical skills, became even more crucial to establishing my place and fully contributing to the team and its task.
My great passion for teamwork has been a constant in my career. I firmly believe in the strength that arises from collaboration and the importance of establishing relationships of trust and mutual support within the group. Each obstacle overcome strengthened my confidence in myself and my ability to challenge established expectations.
What kind of training and certifications are necessary to become a mountain rescuer?
In Argentina, there is no specific official training to become a mountain rescuer. Instead, there are jobs, courses, and careers that can bring a person closer to that professional profile, but there is no standardized formal training like in other countries. Those interested in this field often seek specialized courses and training in climbing techniques, first aid in remote environments, mountain rescue, and rope handling, among others. These trainings are provided by private institutions, rescue organizations, or certified instructors who offer the practical and theoretical approach necessary to effectively perform in mountain emergency situations.
Questions about mountain safety
It is crucial to note that my answers will be in general terms. The reality of mountain rescue and relief in Argentina differs considerably from that in Europe or North America, where mountain and rescue techniques are more developed, and cutting-edge technologies have been applied for longer. It is worth noting that in some places, such as Europe for example, mountaineering is a culturally ingrained way of life with all that this implies.
What are the most common mistakes made by mountaineers that put their safety at risk?
Activities in mountains or remote environments require proper preparation, including technical, mental, and physical readiness, as well as respect for the natural environment’s conditions. Awareness of these aspects and meticulous planning are key to enjoying mountain activities safely and responsibly.
Mountaineering is imbued with a romantic spirit that inspires and captivates those who venture into its challenges. It feels presumptuous to talk about ‘mistakes,’ especially since I am not an expert mountaineer in the broad sense of the term.
Personally, I believe the foundation for this answer lies in the analysis of Comprehensive Risk Management, a critical aspect of mountain activities that is often underestimated or overlooked. Perhaps by valuing this tool, mountaineers can enjoy their adventures more safely and with fewer chances of encountering dangerous or emergency situations.
I can attempt to outline some aspects that might be useful for evaluation without necessarily speaking of “mistakes” per se.
- Recklessness: Making hasty or inconsiderate decisions in the face of adverse weather conditions, dangerous terrains, or limited physical capacity.
- Inexperience: Lack of necessary technical skills, such as climbing techniques, rope handling, navigation, and first aid in remote environments.
- Lack of preparation: Failing to adequately plan the route, not carrying necessary equipment, or not informing oneself about weather and terrain conditions before the expedition.
- Ignorance of the environment: Not being familiar with the local geography, specific natural hazards of the mountain, or escape routes in case of an emergency.
- Underestimating time and distance: Incorrectly calculating the time needed to complete the route or underestimating the distance, leading to physical exhaustion or getting caught without light during the night.
- Lack of communication: Not informing others about the expedition plans or not carrying a backup communication device in case of emergency.
- Ignoring warning signs: Failing to recognize symptoms of exhaustion, hypothermia, or other medical issues that can arise at high altitudes or in extreme climates.
- Lack of experience: Attempting routes or activities for which one is not technically prepared.
- Overestimation or overconfidence: Believing one has the capacity to face extreme conditions without sufficient training or experience.
- Inappropriate clothing and equipment: Not carrying or carrying inappropriate equipment for weather conditions and terrain, which can lead to hypothermia, injuries, or difficulties in an emergency.
- Illness: Ignoring signs of illness or physical discomfort that can worsen at high altitudes or in extreme conditions.
- Lack of physical preparation: Not being in adequate physical shape for the proposed challenge, leading to rapid fatigue, injuries, or even emergency situations.
What preventive measures do you recommend to ensure safety during a mountain expedition?
- Initial risk assessment: Before starting any mountain activity, it’s essential to conduct a detailed assessment of the potential risks associated with the route, weather conditions, terrain, and group skills. In other words, perform a Comprehensive Risk Management for the group or mountaineer.
- Planning: Having a clear plan that includes alternative routes, escape points, and a realistic schedule helps mitigate risks and be prepared for unforeseen situations.
- Constant monitoring: During the activity, it’s important to continuously monitor changing conditions and the physical and mental fatigue of the team. Being attentive to danger signs like sudden weather changes or signs of exhaustion can prevent dangerous situations.
- Proper use of safety equipment: Having the appropriate equipment and knowing how to use it correctly is essential. This includes ropes, helmets, harnesses, fall protection devices, and navigation tools.
- Effective communication: Maintaining clear and open communication within the team about conditions, plans, and any changes in strategy helps minimize risks and make informed decisions.
- Training and skills: Having the technical skills and proper training in rescue techniques, first aid in remote environments, and mountain navigation enhances the ability to handle emergency situations effectively.
- Time management: Not underestimating the time needed to complete the route and ensuring the ability to return to a safe place before nightfall or worsening weather is crucial to avoid unnecessary risks.
- Physical self-awareness: Understanding how the body responds to different environmental conditions, physical exertion, and hydration and nutrition levels is crucial. This allows for recognizing early signs of fatigue, dehydration, or exhaustion, enabling preventive decisions before they become serious problems.
- Active listening to the body: Being attentive to signals from the body, such as muscle aches, cramps, difficulty breathing, or changes in body temperature, helps adjust pace and take breaks when necessary.
- Knowledge of personal limits: Recognizing one’s own physical and emotional limits is crucial. This involves knowing when it’s safe to continue and when it’s prudent to stop or turn back on a route or activity.
- Proper care: Maintaining overall physical preparation before venturing into the mountains helps minimize injury risks. This includes strengthening key muscles, improving cardiovascular endurance, and ensuring adequate flexibility.
- Rest management: Scheduling and respecting adequate rest periods during prolonged mountain activities is essential to maintaining constant and safe performance.
- Nutrition and hydration: Maintaining a balanced diet appropriate for weather conditions and physical exertion is crucial. Proper hydration is essential to prevent dehydration and exhaustion.
- Adaptation to conditions: Being aware of how weather and environmental conditions affect the body helps make informed decisions about clothing and necessary equipment to maintain comfort and safety.
How does weather affect mountain safety, and what precautions should be taken in adverse weather conditions?
Weather plays a crucial role in mountain safety and can significantly impact the conditions and experience of mountaineers/rescuers.
Impact of Weather on Safety:
- Rapid changes: Mountain weather can change suddenly, with thunderstorms, unexpected snowfall, dense fog, or wind gusts that can reduce visibility and increase the risk of accidents.
- Extreme temperatures: Temperatures can be extremely cold even in summer, causing hypothermia if not adequately prepared with proper clothing and shelter.
- Wind: Strong wind gusts can be dangerous, especially on exposed ridges and peaks, increasing the risk of falls or loss of equipment.
- Precipitation: Rain, snow, or ice can make trails slippery and dangerous, increasing the risk of falls and injuries.
In adverse weather conditions, it’s essential to take appropriate precautions to ensure safety during mountain expeditions:
- Weather monitoring: Before the expedition, it is essential to check and stay updated on the weather forecast to anticipate sudden changes during the activity.
- Proper equipment: It’s recommended to carry appropriate clothing for cold and wet conditions, including waterproof and thermal layers, as well as gloves and a hat to protect against extreme cold.
- Emergency shelter: It’s advisable to carry an emergency shelter, such as a thermal blanket or ultralight tent, to quickly seek refuge if necessary.
- Flexible planning: Having a flexible route plan that can be adjusted according to weather conditions is recommended. It’s advisable to consider alternative routes and identify safe escape points if needed.
- Communication: Informing a trusted person about the itinerary and expected return time is crucial. Additionally, carrying an emergency communication device, if possible, can be very helpful in critical situations.
- Informed decisions: Continuously evaluating weather conditions and making informed decisions about continuing, retreating, or seeking shelter based on perceived risk and group safety is fundamental.
- Safety skills training: It’s recommended to have knowledge in techniques for navigation in low visibility conditions, securing on slippery terrain, and advanced first aid. These skills prepare the mountaineer to act effectively in case of emergency.
Essential Equipment for Mountain Trips
The essential equipment for any person planning a mountain trip can vary depending on the type of activity and specific conditions, but here are some basic elements that are fundamental:
- Proper Footwear: Sturdy mountain boots suitable for the terrain, with good traction and ankle support.
- Technical Clothing: Layered clothing suitable for the mountains, including breathable shirts, insulating mid-layers, and a waterproof and windproof jacket.
- Backpack: A durable and comfortable backpack with enough capacity to carry necessary gear and water.
- Hydration System: Water bottles or a hydration bladder (like Camelbak) to stay hydrated during the activity.
- Food and Snacks: Energy-rich and easy-to-consume foods, such as nuts, energy bars, and dried fruits.
- Map and Compass (or GPS Device): Navigation tools to orient yourself correctly, especially in remote areas or where GPS signal is weak.
- Headlamp or Flashlight: To illuminate the path if the activity extends into the night or for emergencies.
- First Aid Kit: Including bandages, disinfectants, painkillers, and other basic supplies for treating minor injuries and emergency situations.
- Multi-Tool or Knife: For various tasks like cutting rope, making small repairs, or opening containers.
- Emergency Whistle: For signaling in case you need help.
- Sun Protection and Sunglasses: High-factor sunscreen and sunglasses to protect against UV radiation at high altitudes.
- Additional Equipment According to the Activity: Depending on the specific activity, it may be necessary to carry technical gear such as ropes, harnesses, crampons, ice axes, helmets, sleeping bags, etc.
- Insulating Pad
Communication Systems for Safety
Communication systems are vital tools for safety and coordination during mountain trips. It’s crucial to verify coverage and reliability of communication systems based on the location and duration of the activity. Always carry a detailed communication plan and inform someone you trust about your itinerary before departing. Some systems include:
- Mobile Phone: Useful for calls in areas with coverage. Can be limited in remote areas.
- Handheld Radio: Two-way radios operating on specific frequencies. Effective for group communication in areas without mobile coverage (VHF).
- GPS Devices with Messaging: Devices like Garmin inReach or SPOT allow sending text messages and emergency alerts via satellite networks.
- Emergency Beacons: Devices like PLB (Personal Locator Beacon) that send an emergency signal with precise GPS location to rescue services.
- Satellite Voice Systems: Advanced equipment allowing voice calls via satellite networks.
- Mobile Apps: Apps that allow sharing location and sending text messages even without mobile coverage, using satellite networks.
Rescue Procedures in the Mountains
Could you describe the process of a typical mountain rescue, from receiving the emergency call to rescuing the person?
The process of a typical mountain rescue can vary depending on the location, weather conditions, and the severity of the emergency, but here are the general steps usually followed:
- Receiving the Emergency Call:
- The process begins when an emergency call is received, whether through a mobile phone, handheld radio, GPS device, or emergency beacon (PLB).
- The caller provides details about the location, the number of people involved, the nature of the emergency, and the condition of the victims.
- Initial Assessment and Coordination:
- The rescue team, which may include local rescuers, alpine rescue teams, park rangers, or other competent authorities, conducts an initial assessment of the situation.
- Resources are coordinated, which may include ground rescue teams, search and rescue helicopters (SAR), or other specialized units as needed.
- Mobilizing Rescue Teams:
- Rescue teams are mobilized to the reported location. This may involve long hikes, climbing, or using all-terrain vehicles depending on access to the site.
- Arriving at the Emergency Site:
- Once the rescue team arrives, they conduct a more detailed assessment and confirm the exact location of the victims.
- A safe operations zone is established, and preparations for the rescue are made, considering the terrain and additional risks.
- Stabilization and Initial Medical Care:
- Rescuers provide initial medical care to the victims, assessing and treating injuries, administering first aid, and stabilizing their physical condition as necessary.
- Preparation for Evacuation:
- Depending on the severity of injuries and conditions, the most suitable evacuation method is determined. This may include using ropes, rescue stretchers, helicopters, or other specialized equipment.
- Evacuation and Transfer to Safety:
- Victims are evacuated safely and systematically to a location where they can receive definitive medical care.
- In severe cases, a helicopter transfer to nearby hospitals or medical centers may be coordinated if available.
- Defusing and Debriefing:
- After the rescue, a “defusing” process focuses on evaluating the emergency management and identifying lessons learned.
- If necessary, a debriefing process is coordinated to provide immediate and basic emotional relief after a traumatic event to the rescue team and/or victims.
- Both are essential for effectively managing critical situations and for the emotional health of those involved.
Current Equipment and Technology in Mountain Rescue Operations
What types of equipment and technology are currently used in mountain rescue operations?
Mountain rescue operations utilize a variety of equipment and technologies to facilitate and ensure safe operations. Some of the most common equipment includes:
- Topographic Maps and Navigation Tools: For precise planning and navigation in mountainous terrain.
- GPS Navigation Systems: To locate and track the position of rescue teams and victims.
- Communication Equipment: To maintain communication between rescue team members and coordination centers, and other emergency teams.
- Drones: Used for aerial search and surveillance, providing real-time images and access to hard-to-reach areas.
- Helicopters and Aircraft: Crucial for the rapid transport of rescue teams and medical evacuation from inaccessible areas by land.
- Climbing Ropes and Harnesses: For safe access to difficult areas and the rescue of people trapped in technical terrain.
- Rescue Stretchers and Systems: Specialized equipment designed for the safe transport of victims from remote and rugged areas.
- Advanced Medical Equipment: Including defibrillators, advanced first aid kits, and medical personnel trained in rescue and first aid in hostile environments.
- Lighting and Thermal Systems: Essential for night operations and search in low visibility conditions.
- Personal Protective Equipment: Such as helmets, harnesses, and appropriate clothing and footwear for mountainous terrain and environment.
Coordination and Communication in Rescue Operations
How do rescue teams coordinate during an operation and what role does communication play in these cases?
Communication plays a crucial role in mountain rescue operations by facilitating effective coordination among teams, improving rescuer safety, and maximizing the chances of successful rescue in adverse and difficult environments. It allows real-time coordination, risk management, resource optimization, and informed decision-making.
Coordination of Rescue Teams varies depending on location and involved institutions, but generally, it can be organized as follows:
- Coordination Center: This is typically the central point from where all rescue operations are managed and coordinated. This center can be located at a National Park Administration (APN) radio station, a fire brigade headquarters, or an emergency medical center. Here, emergency calls are received, responses are planned, and resources are generally allocated.
- Deployment of Teams: Once an alert is received, appropriate rescue teams are deployed based on the nature and location of the emergency. This can include terrestrial, aquatic, or aerial search and rescue teams, depending on the environment and severity of the situation.
- Communication and Updates: During the operation, rescue teams maintain constant communication with the coordination center and among themselves. This is crucial to share relevant information such as the victim’s location, the operation’s status, changes in terrain and weather conditions, and any other information that may affect safety and success of the rescue.
Personal Experiences and Anecdotes
Could you share a memorable or particularly impactful experience of a rescue you’ve been involved in?
During my time with the Red Cross, I participated in the response to the 2003 flood in Santa Fe. I witnessed firsthand how the survival instinct can transform human behavior in extreme situations. The violence present in those scenarios was also impactful.
Another memorable intervention was during a high mountain expedition, where a young woman presented a worrying general condition. After investigating, we discovered she was suffering from a severe eating disorder, which complicated an already critical situation.
Working as a ski patroller at a ski resort, I faced the challenge of attending to a woman with high-altitude pulmonary edema, a rare condition at that altitude. The delayed diagnosis highlighted the importance of not underestimating the analysis of the context and mountain environments.
At the same ski resort, I promised a boy to find his finger after he didn’t release the lift in time, resulting in amputation. We spent an entire afternoon searching for a tiny finger, which we luckily found!
Earlier this year, I assisted a colleague in managing an acute traumatic ankle injury. The situation was stressful but also had moments of humor that helped ease the tension.
Enjoyment and Challenges in Rescuing
What do you enjoy most about your job as a rescuer and what is the most difficult?
I greatly enjoy teamwork, working side by side with my colleagues, the camaraderie, and learning together. I deeply value the shared intimacy among peers, the unconditional bond we build, and the absolute trust that allows us to work shoulder to shoulder with our eyes closed.
Questions on Awareness and Education
What actions do you think should be taken to improve awareness about mountain safety among both amateur and professional mountaineers?
I find this a very relevant question because raising awareness about mountain safety is crucial to reducing risks and enhancing the experience for all those who practice mountaineering, whether amateurs or professionals. Here are some essential actions:
Continuous Education and Training:
- Courses and Workshops: Offer regular courses on safe mountaineering techniques, first aid in remote environments, and navigation and orientation skills.
- Certifications: Promote the attainment of recognized certifications that validate the necessary skills and knowledge to practice mountaineering safely.
Information Dissemination:
- Educational Material: Develop and distribute guides, manuals, and educational videos that cover topics such as physical preparation, route planning, appropriate equipment, and risk management.
- Awareness Campaigns: Utilize social media, media outlets, and community events to spread messages about mountain safety, highlighting rescue experiences and lessons learned.
Access to Resources:
- Information Centers: Establish information centers in popular mountain areas where mountaineers can obtain updated maps, weather conditions, and safety advice before setting out.
- Online Platforms: Create online platforms with detailed information about routes, difficulty levels, access points, and specific warnings for each mountain.
Promotion of Best Practices:
- Mountaineering Ethics: Promote respect for the environment, conservation of flora and fauna, and responsible use of facilities in the mountains.
- Respect for Regulations: Educate about local and international regulations related to mountaineering and their importance for safety and sustainability.
Collaboration and Community:
- Support Networks: Encourage the creation of local mountaineering networks where experiences, advice, and warnings can be openly and constructively shared.
- Community Participation: Involve local organizations, mountaineering clubs, rescue authorities, and certified guides in awareness and safety initiatives.
Evaluation and Continuous Improvement:
- Incident Analysis: Investigate and analyze mountain safety incidents to identify patterns, common errors, and areas for improvement.
- Constructive Feedback: Use the results of analyses to adjust and improve educational programs, regulations, and awareness strategies.
I believe that implementing these actions in an integrated and continuous manner could significantly contribute to improving awareness about mountain safety, thereby reducing risks and promoting safer and more rewarding experiences for all mountaineers.
Do you offer or participate in training programs or workshops on mountain safety? If so, what topics do you usually cover in these courses?
Yes, I am the founder of PAyTZA, an organization specialized in providing training in first aid in remote areas. We offer several training options, with the most internationally recognized being the WFR (Wilderness First Responder), WFA (Wilderness First Aid), and WAFA (Wilderness Advanced First Aid) courses.
Questions on Trends and the Future
Have you noticed any changes in mountain safety trends in recent years, whether in terms of technology, practices, or policies?
The emergence of mountaineering organizations that bring together specialists and disseminate relevant information, as well as offer continuous training, has also improved the development of mountain activities. Networks have facilitated the widespread dissemination of institutional work, research, advances in techniques, and equipment in the mountaineering field. Generally, I could group the advances as follows:
Advances in Communication Technology:
- Location and Communication Devices: The use of GPS devices and satellite communication systems has improved the ability of mountaineers to communicate in remote areas and transmit emergency signals with greater accuracy.
Improvements in Safety Equipment:
- Rescue Technology: More advanced and lightweight rescue equipment, such as improved ropes and harnesses, has been developed to facilitate rescue operations in difficult terrains.
Enhanced Education and Training:
- Greater Emphasis on First Aid Training: There has been an increase in the availability and importance of first aid training specifically designed for mountainous and remote environments.
Updated Regulations and Policies:
- Local and National Regulations: Some mountainous areas have implemented stricter regulations regarding access and responsible use of the environment, helping to protect both visitors and nature.
Access to Real-Time Information:
- Digital Applications and Platforms: The availability of mobile applications and online platforms that provide detailed information about routes, weather conditions, and safety warnings has increased, helping mountaineers to better plan their expeditions.
Changes in Safety Practices:
- Risk Management Focus: There has been a shift towards more proactive risk management, including detailed assessments before the expedition and meticulous planning of routes and activities.
These changes reflect a continuous effort by the mountaineering community, authorities, and rescue organizations to improve the safety and experience of those who enjoy the mountains. I believe that the adoption of new technologies, improved training, and updated regulations are positive steps towards a safer and more sustainable mountain environment.
What challenges and opportunities do you see for the future of mountain safety and rescue?
Challenges:
Climate Change:
Climate change is altering conditions in the mountains, increasing the frequency of extreme weather events and affecting terrain stability, which could heighten risks for mountaineers and complicate rescue operations.
Access and Sustainability:
The rising popularity of mountaineering can put additional pressure on natural resources and local infrastructure, challenging the capacity for safe and sustainable access to mountainous areas.
Technology and Dependence:
Although technology has improved rescue capabilities, there is also a risk of over-reliance on electronic devices, which can fail in extreme environments or leave mountaineers unprotected in emergencies.
Education and Awareness:
Ensuring that all mountaineers, from beginners to experts, have the appropriate education and awareness about mountain safety remains a challenge. Lack of preparation can lead to dangerous situations and increase the burden on rescue services.
International Collaboration:
Coordinating rescue efforts across international borders can be complicated due to differences in protocols, resources, and regulations. Greater collaboration could improve the efficiency and effectiveness of cross-border rescue operations.
Opportunities:
Technological Advances:
The continuous evolution of technology offers opportunities to develop more advanced communication, navigation, and rescue devices that enhance safety and emergency response.
Continuous Education and Training:
Strengthening educational programs and continuous training in first aid, rescue techniques, and risk management can empower mountaineers to make safer decisions and reduce the incidence of accidents.
Networks and Collaboration:
Expanding and strengthening collaboration networks among rescue organizations, educational institutions, local governments, and the mountaineering community can improve emergency response and the dissemination of best safety practices.
Environmental Sustainability:
Promoting sustainable mountaineering practices that respect and protect the environment will contribute to the conservation of mountain ecosystems and ensure long-term accessibility to these areas for future generations of mountaineers.
Public Awareness:
Leveraging digital platforms and educational campaigns to raise public awareness about mountain risks and safety can foster responsible behavior and better preparation among mountaineering enthusiasts.